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家乡的味道是什么?一口热腾腾的古早味丨看见厦门 04

厦门这个城市是什么味道?

是街头小巷的文艺气息?

是迎面吹来的海风味道?

闽南人可能会告诉你

是古早味

——承载着古老与怀念的味道


位于厦门大元路上的赖厝埕扁食店

是厦门唯一一家没有移址

又坚持做一种食物的小吃店

从1948年开店至今

它整整坚守了71年


扁食,在中国北方也叫“馄饨”。店主黄国宝介绍说,1946年,他的妈妈就挑着担子沿街叫卖。赖厝埕是厦门最繁华的饮食商业街,扁食店自1948年搬迁至此后,始终没有改变。

In southern Fujian, another name for wontons is "bianshi", or "flat food". Owner of Laicuocheng Wonton House Huang Guobao said in 1946 his mother carried a shoulder pole and peddled along the street. Laicuocheng Street was the most prosperous food street in Xiamen. The wonton house moved here in 1948. Up to now, nothing has changed.


黄国宝的母亲

就是当年厦门著名的“扁食嫂”

一些客人即使去到海外

也放不下这一口热腾腾的古早味


母亲离世后

黄国宝接手了扁食店

有了客人的支持

年复一年

黄国宝舍不得放弃


黄国宝在妈妈传统配方的基础上

又创新做出了鲜虾仁扁食汤

新加坡、日本、美国、香港……

他每到一个国家、一个城市

都要吃一碗扁食

来和家里比比看



黄国宝用闽南近海的野生虾作为原料。海里面的虾,吃起来非常甜,非常好吃,但是工艺非常复杂。他们总是选择最好的虾,因为海里面的虾里面有沙子,所以每天都要把每一只虾的虾线抽掉。


One of the ingredients of Huang's wonton is wild sea shrimp from the shores of southern Fujian. It tastes sweet and delicious, but the preparation process is rather complicated. They always choose the best shrimp. To get rid of the sand in it, the veins in each shrimp must be removed.


打肉馅、挑虾线……

每一道工序

黄国宝都不敢马虎

常常工作到深夜


像扁食肉里面现在如果添加一点添加剂,肯定一斤肉当好几斤都可以,但这个坚持不做。这是我爸爸说,你宁愿把店关掉,也不能为了利润,把我们的扁食变了。

With a little additive in the minced wonton meat, one kilo of meat can become several, but we shall never do that. My father used to tell me you should sooner shut down your wonton house than change the wonton for the sake of profit.

这份古早之味让人难以割舍

它陪着不少客人长大





但赖厝埕扁食店依然面临着继承的现实问题。黄国宝和爱人已经退休了,他说:“能坚持做就做,孩子如果喜欢,让他做。如果没有的话,有许多人要跟我合作,就让热爱厦门的餐饮文化的人来做。”

Laicuocheng Wonton House still faces a challenge of successfully passing on the know-how for traditional delicacy to the next generation. He and his wife are retired. He said, "Health permitting, we will continue our wonton house. If our child is interested in it, then we'll pass it on to him. If not, there are many people out there who want to cooperate with me and we'll pass it on to whoever loves Xiamen's food culture."

巧食多源自民间

美味常藏于市井

在厦门

那一口让人流连忘返的好味道

那些深藏于街头巷尾的“老字号”

都是最地道最纯净的古早味



编导 杨艺

摄像 杨艺

剪辑 程睿泽(实习)

解说 张逸安

编辑 付慧敏

文案 陈玉琪(实习生)

制片人 杨艺

统筹 高启辉

监制 柯荣谊

出品人 王浩